This is a flipping four-star restaurant. The sauteed skate we ordered came with cauliflower that you spent a week and a half caramelizing and a caper-raisin emulsion that required a Ph.D. in Chemistry to produce. You could at least seat us at a table with four legs of equal length. We’ve spilled so much coffee, we’ve had to ask for three extra cloth napkins—the third to fold and shove underneath the derelict leg.
LEWIS AND JANET NEUMAN