Must all our pleasures now be “luxe”? The humble iced cupcake used to give a cheap but satisfying thrill. No more. It’s had a grotesque and pricey makeover. Icing’s out, replaced by a thick, damp gob of buttercream. It sits like an absurd, top-heavy bonnet atop the squat and dowdy cake. And you just spent two bucks for a mouthful of greasy frosting on a squishy little puck. Happy?